【47 Hakko Osaka】大阪の守口漬け 〜戦国大名が見出した、なにわのローカル漬物〜

▶︎ 読みもの, 発酵あれこれ, 47都道府県の発酵,

戦国大名が見出した、なにわのローカル漬物
大阪のベッドタウン守口が中世、農村だった頃。淀川沿いの湿った土地で守口大根というゴボウのように細長い大根を栽培していた。苦くて辛いその大根を酒粕漬けにしたものを、ある日、守口村を通りかかった豊臣秀吉公に献上したら、いたく気に入られて名産品になったと言う。その後、愛知や岐阜に渡って奈良漬に似た高級品となったが、オリジナルレシピは踏み固めた酒粕に一度漬けするシンプルなもの。淀川対岸の摂津富田(せっつとんだ)に同じ製法でシロウリを漬ける富田漬けが今でも残っている。

Local pickles of Naniwa that caught the eyes and tongue of the legendary warlord
Moriguchi, now a bed town of Osaka, was a village of peasants in the medieval era who grew a thin, long radish that looked like burdock along the bank of the main river, Yodogawa. This radish was bitter and had a stinging taste that could not be eaten raw. So the peasants pickled it in sake lees. One day, the famous warlord, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, dropped by the village of Moriguchi, and when he tasted this pickled radish offered from the peasants as the local specialty, he became very fond of the taste. Since then, this radish established its name as “Moriguchi daikon” as well as the fame as a premium product that became as popular as Narazuke, the most well-known radish pickles at the time, spreading its market to as far as Aichi and Gifu prefectures. In contrary to this prestige, the original recipe of Moriguchizuke is actually very plain and simple, requiring the radish to be pickled in the bed of hardly pressed and solidified sake lees. In Settsu Tonda located on the opposite bank of Yodogawa, the same pickling method was adapted to develop a variation named Tondazuke that uses melon cucumber instead of radish, which is still available in this locality.

どう作って食べるか / HOW TO MAKE & EAT

❶守口大根をさっと湯通ししたのち、1〜3日ほど天日干しにする。
❷熟成させた酒粕と塩を混ぜた漬床に、守口大根をとぐろ状に巻いて漬け込む。
❸数ヶ月〜1年ほど漬け込んでできあがり
★このレシピはおなじく淀川沿いの富田漬けを参考にしている。

❶Run hot water over the Moriguchi daikon for a short period, and dry the wetted radish under the sun for one to three days.
❷Create a pickling bed by mixing aged sake lees with salt.
❸Lay the long radish in a coil shape on the bed and cover it with the mixture of aged sake lees and salt. Let it rest in there for several months to a year.
★ Used the Tondazuke developed on the opposite side of Yodogawa as the reference for this recipe.

香の物として
As a pickles

食べられている地域 / Regions where it is eaten
大阪府内
Osaka Prefecture

微生物の種類 / Types of microorganisms
酵母類、麹菌など
Yeast, Koji-kin (Aspergillus oryzae), etc.

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