【47 Hakko Gifu】岐阜のアユのなれずし Ayu Narezushi 〜まるごと醸す、川のテロワール〜

▶︎ 読みもの, 発酵あれこれ, 47都道府県の発酵,

まるごと醸す、川のテロワール
岐阜の長良川周辺の食のシンボルは鮎。鮎のなれずしは子持ち鮎を内蔵と卵を取り除かずまるごと漬ける。出来上がったなれずしには内蔵由来の臭みが無く、酸味が少なく澄んだ旨味が特徴。これは鮎は昆虫などの小動物を食べず、川の岩苔などを食べるベジタリアンの魚であることが大きな理由だ。苔の質は川によって違い、上質の鮎は森の奥から湧く清水で取れるという。つまり鮎は川の味そのもの。泉善七さんいわく、鮎のなれずしは川のテロワールなのだ。

Narezushi featuring the smooth delicate taste of ayu (sweetfish) and the fresh river water where it came from
The food that features ayu (sweetfish) became the symbol of local specialties around the Nagara River in Gifu Prefecture. The female ayu used for narezushi (fish-mixed sushi) is pickled without removing the eggs and internal organs. The resulting narezushi will no longer have a bad fishy smell originating from the internal organs and produce a fresh umami-flavor that is slightly sour. This distinctive taste of ayu originates mainly from the fact that it is a vegetarian fish. It does not eat insects nor other small animals but fees on river seaweeds that are attached on rocks. The quality of river seaweeds varies according to the river condition, and it has been said that high-quality ayu can be obtained from freshwater reservoirs located deep in the forest. In other words, ayu tastes like the river itself. According to Zenshichi Izumi-san, the 5th generation owner of Izumiya, a long-established ayu food processing house, the narezushi made with ayu is indeed the “river’s terroir”.

どう作って食べるか / HOW TO MAKE & EAT

❶新鮮な鮎を生のまま塩漬けにする。
❷塩漬けにした鮎を洗い、米と一緒に数ヶ月間漬け込む。

❶Pickle the raw, fresh ayu as it is in salt.
❷Wash the salted fish, mix it with rice, and age the mixture for several months.

スライスしたものを酒の肴にする
酵素で溶けたお米を調味料やパテとして使う
In slices to pair with sake
As a seasoning agent or patty (pate) by making use of the rice that has dissolved due to the workings of enzymes

食べられている地域 / Regions where it is eaten
岐阜市を中心に長良川流域
Nagara River basin around Gifu City

微生物の種類 / Types of microorganisms
乳酸菌類、その他細菌類など
Lactic acid bacteria and various other types of bacteria

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