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【47 Hakko Tottori】鳥取の柿の葉ずし Kakinohazushi 〜神さまと人をつなぐ山の寿司〜

神さまと人をつなぐ山の寿司
山間の町、智頭。小高い丘の上に住む國政勝子さんがつくる柿の葉ずし。関西で一般的な柿の葉でご飯を包む押し寿司スタイルではなく、柿の葉に握り飯を乗せ、そのうえに具や薬味を乗せる。葉の緑、飯の白、具のピンクが目に鮮やかで可愛らしい。一度に何十個と仕込み、お盆の終わりをつげる「精進落し」(殺生の解禁記念)として親族や集落のコミュニティの宴会の席で食べていた。信仰やご先祖様との縁をつなぐ「山のお寿司」の典型だ。

Kaki-no-ha Sushi : The Mountain Sushi Connecting Humanity with the Gods
Chizu, a town deep in the mountains. It is here, on a small hill, that you will find Masako Kunimasa making kaki-no-ha sushi (persimmon leaf sushi). Unlike the Kansai style oshizushi (pressed sushi) varieties, in which rice is pressed inside persimmon leaves, Kunimasa-san’s kaki-no-ha sushi are made with pressed rice resting atop the leaves, with toppings and spices on top of the rice. The green leaves, white rice, and pink fish toppings form an adorable, vivid visual spectacle. Traditionally dozens would be prepared all at once, and eaten as part of shojin-otoshi (marking the end of a period of abstaining from eating things which had been killed) at the end of the o-bon festival, together with extended family and or at a feast with the village community. It is a typically Japanese “mountain sushi” symbolically bridging people with their faith and ancestors.

どう作って食べるか / HOW TO MAKE & EAT

❶柿の葉の上に、酢で〆た白米とサクラマスを握った寿司を載せる。
❷寿司の上に山椒の実や穂など季節の香草を乗せアクセントとする。
❸それを桶に仕込んで何段も重ね、1〜5日間ほど発酵させる。
★ 発酵しないうちに食べると甘酸っぱいフレッシュな味。 発酵が進むと酸味とコクが効いた旨味の強い味に。 どちらを選ぶかは人の好みだそう。。

❶Press sakura-trout and vinegared rice on top of persimmon leaves to form sushi.
❷Sprinkle seasonal herbs such as sansho (Japanese pepper) peppercorns and thorns to accentuate the flavor.
❸Put several layers of these into a pail, and allow them to ferment for one to five days.
★ If eaten without fermenting, the kaki-no-ha sushi has a refreshing, sweet-sour flavor. As they ferment, they develop a stronger sour and umami flavor. Both are enjoyed for different taste preference.

家族や村の寄り合いでみんなで食べる
Eaten together in family groups or village communities

食べられている地域 / Regions where it is eaten
握り飯スタイル:智頭町はじめ鳥取・石川
押し寿司スタイル:和歌山・奈良
Pressed rice style: From Chizu, all throughout Tottori and Ishikawa Oshizushi style: Wakayama, Nara

微生物の種類 / Types of microorganisms
酢酸菌、乳酸類
Acetic bacteria, lactic acid bacteria

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